In Paradise, the Cats Don't Make You Sneeze
Langkawi, Malaysia
I've been allergic to cats for as long as I can remember, which is probably why I've never liked them much. But last month, during a stolen weekend on the island of Langkawi I got completely blindsided by a new, unexpected relationship.
This is "my" cottage at Langkawi's Bon Ton Resort. Actually it belongs to the little guy in the lower right hand corner. He's one of about a hundred cats on the property who've been rescued by the Bon Ton's animal loving Australian owner, Narelle McMurtrie.
In addition to her resort and restaurant, Narelle runs and funds an animal rescue center nearby. (Guests are invited to donate--or, even better, volunteer--during their stay). It's the only such facility on the island. She takes in homeless cats and dogs, sometimes injured ones. I was greeted one day at breakfast by a cheerfully barking little guy who maneuvered his way towards me strapped into a kind of wheelchair. Four years ago this dog had been left for dead, paralyzed by a hit-and-run driver, but Narelle scooped him off the road and nursed him back to health--and had the wheeled device shipped in from the U.S. so he could get around.
It's almost a cliche that you go to an island resort to get away from it all, to reacquaint yourself with the feel of the sun, the smell of the sea and the warm wind. But what I discovered during my weekend at Bon Ton was another forgotten pleasure--non-human companionship. At Bon Ton, rescued cats and dogs loll everywhere, and as a guest you move, in a St. Francis-like rapture, through a garden of contented creatures.
The eight cottages at Bon Ton are abandoned wooden Malay village houses that Narelle dis-assembled, shipped to Langkawi, rebuilt and repaired. Raised on stilts and open with slatted windows on all sides to the warm breeze, they have extraordinary ventilation, which made it possible for this allergy-ridden cat-avoider to move from a two dimensional love for "Hello Kitty" into a real-life fur and whiskers relationship.
I spent most of the weekend stretched out on a Planter's chair, reading mystery novels, with the cat curled and purring in my lap.
Yeah, I know that this cat will be just as cozy with the next tenant of the cottage. I wasn't expecting monogamy. I just hope she still remembers me when I return to Langkawi.
Hey Daisann
I love those old Malaysian houses from the kampongs. They don't make them like they used to apparently.
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The houses at Bon Ton are just wonderful. On the weekend that I stayed there I only left my house once. It's really a terrific experience to live in architecture that is so in tune with the local surroundings.
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Hi D, Enjoy your column in NGT..Yours is the FIRST thing I read when I get new issue.
I am going to be in China Mar 19th -3rd April..Starting in HK and ending in Beijing.
I am going to be with my wife..Many things to see..However, is there ONE thing in each city that you would say are "must sees" for us in your opinion?
I bought NGT book on each city..
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Hi Peter--So so sorry to get to your email so late.. I've been on the road too. Hope you had a great time exploring China.
In answer to you question, I don't believe in "must sees"....everyone's got different interests and travel styles, and one person's "must see" is another's dull afternoon. What I do believe in is traveling in a way that keeps you open to possibilities, to sudden surprises and last second changes of plan.
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D, No problem..You are right and it was a "loaded" question anyway. Unlike many trips to Eurpoe though, China does not seem to be a place to rent a car and "Go" Explore ..Hong Kong was clean and the subways efficient, but too much "bling".Exciting mix of new and some old.
Beijing was not the kind of place that I could wander around, and admire the old buildings and old areas..Too much Neo-Communist bland buildings..There seems to be less and less "old" Beijing to "marinate" in. The Hutongs were great..The energy of the people in both cities was evident. The people were great and helpful..Having a blond wife with me made me a celebrity!
Regards,
peter
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Great post. Maybe you were just allergic to the pollen and such past cats were bringing in. Although, I've heard that people may be allergic to some cats' dander and not others. Anyway, sounds like a very relaxing visit. Good pics too.
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Another wonderful article and photos. Narelle McMurtrie sounds like a woman of enormous energy and heart! As a cat lover myself (albeit mildly allergic) I'm pleased to hear you got to experience the joys of curling up with a kitty and a good book.
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Hi Millie. You're right, Narelle McMurtrie really is a special lady. And I'm very grateful to her for enabling me to experience the life of a cat lover, albiet for just a long weekend.
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Great post..As a cat lover myself I'm pleased to hear you got to experience the joys of curling up with a kitty and a good book.
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